Where to eat in São Luís, Maranhão: Best Restaurants according to a local
I lived in São Luís for 6 years about 15 years ago, and now I returned to visit old friends and was excited to learn that many of my favorite gastronomical gems are still open and tasty! Join me in visiting some of São Luís’ best restaurants.
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Carne de sol at Cabana do Sol
Restaurant Location
Cabana do Sol is the most traditional restaurant in town and a must-visit for anyone trying to get an authentic experience while exploring São Luís. When living in town, I used to go to Cabana do Sol on weekends with my middle school friends, and my parents would have business meals there.
Cabana do Sol has two locations in Sao Luis:
- Farol de São Marcos: an older and more traditional location, some might say that the food there is better!
- Avenida Litorania: a beautiful restaurant featuring an amazing ocean view
No matter which location you choose, you’re sure to find tasty Carne do Sol on the menu. To be honest, I’ve never found a carne de sol that comes close in softness and juiciness to what is served at Cabana do Sol.
Signature dish: Carne de Sol
Carne de Sol (literally meaning “Sun Meat”) is a food-conservation technique from the Brazilian Northeast where meat is salted and put to dry in a well-ventilated and shaded space. It can be thought of as a Brazilian version beef jerky, differing from the common jerky because no chemical substances (ex: nitrate) are added to the meat.
At Cabana do Sol, one of their most famous dishes is a giant piece of Carne de Sol, so large that it is casually referred to as “elephant’s ear” by locals. At the price tag R$223 for the half portion, the dish serves 2 to 4 people and comes with a full banquet of Brazilian sides worth trying: baião de dois, white rice, beans, okra, pumpkin, paçoca, yuca, fried bananas, “bottle butter”, and rapadura.
Around São Luís, you can see Carne de Sol being used in many different ways: topping for pizzas (especially amazing in the thin pizzas at Vignoli), filling for tapioca, steak-like (the way it is served at Cabana do Sol), mixed in a Brazilian Farofa, as the main ingredient for an escondidinho… the options are endless!
Filé à Oswaldo Aranha at Thai
Don’t be fooled thinking that you won’t find authentic Brazilian food at a restaurant named “Thai“!
Restaurant Location: Thai
Back when I lived in São Luís over 10 years ago, Thai used to be in a standalone building that had an amazing vibe. More recently, they moved to Golden Shopping Calhau. Being in a shopping mall negatively affected the vibe, but I can guarantee that they still serve the best Oswaldo Aranha in Brazil!
Signature dish: Filé à Oswaldo Aranha
Filé à Oswaldo Aranha is a dish named after a famous Brazilian diplomat, who would order this dish for lunch at traditional restaurants in Rio in the decades of 1930-1940.
The dish consists of steak (typically fillet mignon) topped and seasoned with fried garlic served with white rice, fried manioc powder, and potato chips. This is my favorite dish, and although I’ve ordered it in many different cities and states around Brazil, Thai’s take on the dish remains the best I’ve tasted!
Carne de Sol pizza at Vignoli
It’s not a waste to eat “Italian” food in Brazil, especially because Brazilian pizza often comes with unique toppings not found elsewhere. At Vignoli, the toppings aren’t the only special thing; their pizza is so thin and crunchy that they even provide gloves to customers for them to eat with their hands. In Brazil, it’s uncommon to eat pizza with your hands—local etiquette usually dictates using a fork and knife. Vignoli’s super thin pizza is the only situation where I’ve seen Brazilians bend this rule!
Restaurant Location: Vignoli
Vignoli recently moved to the Ponta do Farol area of São Luís, and their new standalone building offers indoor and outdoor seating. Although the new location does not offer an ocean view, it still has a romantic and tropical vibe.
Signature dish: Thin crust pizza
We’ve talked about Carne de Sol, a gastronomical gem from the northern territories of Brazil. Although beef jerky pizza might not sound good to you, I promise that carne de sol is the ultimate pizza topping! The pizza crust is so thin that one whole pizza might not be enough to feed just one person. On the bright side, this opens up an opportunity to try out multiple flavors!
